Digital LCD Linear 0-150mm/0-6inch Accurate Digital Readout Lathe Scale for Milling Machines

I bought this hoping to add a digital readout to a standard 6" jointer, and it worked far more easily than I anticipated. The photos show the DRO attached to the jointer (an older Bridgewood model fitted with a helical cutterhead). The steps to fit it to the jointer were:1. Determine where the end brackets need to be so the guide bar is parallel to the infeed table ways, and drill and tap 8-32 holes in the jointer base for the mounting screws.2. Attach the end brackets, and use these to determine how long the bar needs to be, and cut the bar to this length (mine came out to exactly 6" - who'd have thought...). Since the bar is aluminum, it's easily cut with a hacksaw and cleaned up with a file.3. Place the guide bar and carriage into the brackets, and measure the distance from the bottom of the carriage to the side of the infeed table to determine the carriage attachment bracket depth.4. Adjust the supplied carriage attachment bracket to provide the necessary depth for attachment as measured in the previous step. This may involve adding spacers, or as in my case flattening out the "z" in the bracket to reduce the depth.5. Remove the guide bar assembly, attach the bracket to the carriage, re-attach the guide bar to the end brackets, and determine where to drill and tap a hole for the screw to fasten the carriage bracket to the infeed table (mine landed exactly on the hole from the original arrow indicator, so just needed to be enlarged and tapped - as they say, it's better to be lucky than to be good), and attach to the infeed table6. Adjust the table to give a 0 depth of cut, and use the zero-set button to calibrate the gaugeThe whole process took just about an hour, and initial testing seems to indicate it's quite accurate.A couple of caveats:- Put the batteries in first and see which orientation of the carriage gives positive versus negative measurements - you really want to have positive measurements increasing as you lower the infeed table, i.e., as the carriage moves to the left. For me, this meant orienting the carriage with the output wire on top- The measurements given by the DRO need to be scaled by some factor to get the actual depth of cut, since the DRO measures the travel along the angled ways. You can determine this by using the existing scale along the infeed table, which will show how far the infeed table needs to be slid down to get a desired depth of cut. In my case, the factor was exactly 2, so the depth of cut is exactly half of what the DRO shows - i.e., if the DRO shows .050", the depth of cut is .025". I don't know if this is the standard angle used for jointers, or specific to my machine, so you might have a different factor. (It would be great if the manufacturers provided a mechanism to set a scale factor to make it ideal for applications like these.)

Use for the z axis on my vertical Mill drill, works great. Only bad thing is that it doesn't time out and shut off

I am not sure if these would be accurate enough for a milling machine or lathe work, However, I have bought 3 of them. Most drill presses don't have any decent depth gauge or stop on them. Let alone any kit to do so. So, DIY in what I need. These can be cut and shorten if the length is to long and does not effect operation of them. Cutting is tricky due to glass glue to aluminum bar - die cut-off wheels doesn't hack it. the mounting hdwe is easy to modify. Wish there was a way to shorten the wire cable to display. The display work in metric or inches {I still do both}. I like the zeroing out feature, allowing me to set my own zero reference point anddrill to my require depth for that hole and reset it for something else. There really isn't any hdwe out there that a person can buy to attach the drill's spindle and to the digital slide assy. Mine our all hand crafted.

Great DRO for the price. I have a VEVOR mini lathe. Without the chip guard the holes line up perfectly with the holes on the back of the lathe. I then 3d printed a small fixture to fit around the screw head behind the carriage (white PLA+). I used super glue between this white fixture and the DRO slide to keep it in place. This allows me to completely remove the DRO with only two screws if needed. I am making small parts less than 1” in length and I’m able to hit accuracy of .001” easy. This is necessary for these mini lathes as there is no way to indicate the cross slide feed. Now it is more accurate than ever thanks to this upgrade!

I have three of these in use on different machines (lathe tailstock, lathe compound slide, CNC plasma table vertical axis). The readouts match those of the adjustment wheels on the machines or comparison measurements. They’re easy to install and can be simply cut to custom length with a hacksaw. Would certainly recommend. Excellent value.

Does just what it says.

Installed on my standalone Shopsmith planner. Pretty easy install and accurate as well.

The pictures are of what came out of the box from the seller.Obviously used. I payed for a new DRO not this junk.There was missing hardware also. I sent pictures to the seller and they admitted that they sometimes resell used returned items as new. I can't believe they admitted it!I returned it to Amazon for refund. I could have exchanged it but I refuse to deal with or support sellers like this.With that being said after inspecting the DRO it was perfectly clear that this is a very cheap product. Flimsy sheet metal brackets. The DRO movement on the scale was very rough and Jerky. The magnets on the console were barely able to support the readout and cables. This is a great concept but poorly executed. If you need a DRO spend the extra money on a better one from a responsible seller. Maybe I just got a lemon. I will never know!