RGEEK 24pin PSU 12V DC Input 150W Peak Output Switch DC-DC ATX Pico PSU Mini ITX PC Power

So far these have been great, I was tired of using a full ATX power supply to run my mining rigs just to power the mother board. The cards were already setup to use a server PSU off 240v so I bought a few of these, clipped the barrel ends of and soldered them to a 6 pin PCIE power connection, plugged them into the PSUs and booted the motherboard. One less thing in the mix and very efficient.

Running an Asrock 5005-ITX and two 3.5" hard drives. Adding a DVD-RW drive hangs the system when the drive is accessed.Outside of that, rock solid. I'm powering it with the 20A version of https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GFLFTV2 which is overkill. Both are barely warm.I needed a few Y-splitters for drive power connectors, and to make my own connectors for the DC PSU I bought, obviously.

I finally put a meter on this thing and I should have done it earlier and I would have been able to refund this defective item, now it's e-waste and a waste of $25. I just tested an old ATX 20 pin and I figured it'd be a good time to make sure this met the ATX standard. I can verify that the grounds are where they should be, but the 3.3v, 5v, 12v, -12v lines are all dead. I even tried tying the green ground loop to the common ground in case this was an enable feature. It only lights a blue LED.

After a few weeks it's still doing its job but strangely, when switched off, the 12v rail is still producing about 1v and the power led on the PSU is lit. Even when it's connected to nothing but its own power brick, this is the case. So far no apparent harm from this but it doesn't seem good.The +5 and -5 are completely dead when switched off. As one would expect.

Using this to power a media box for my parents.Works well, if only a little bit difficult to remove once installed.Be cautious though, with the placement of most RAM slots in proximity to the 24 pin socket, this does interfere with ram slots on most boards. I'd recommend low profile RAM if you can help it. I got mine installed, but it totally took longer than it should've.It would've been far simpler had I used LP.

I’m on the fence. Everything seemed fine on this new PC Build. I used a genuine, reliable 10A Xbox power supply for the 12V (which is plenty, bc this is a low power setup with no GPU card). Powered down for the night once all my drivers and updates were installed. The next morning I powered up, and no HDMI output from my PC. (Luckily I have a portable display that runs on USB 3.0 so I could get a display up). I thought it had to be something with the motherboard, so while I was trying to troubleshoot, I looked over and saw my CPU fan stopped spinning. Yikes! I felt a lot of heat coming from the two metal resistors on this pico connector. Turned off, re-started, fan running, still no HDMI signal, but then about 10 minutes later, fan stops running. (This happened 2 more times).So, went to the garage, yanked out a 250w ATX PSU from the PC graveyard, swapped out the pico, and presto: HDMI signal is back, and fan’s been running steady for 2 hours. I think one of the lower voltage outputs on the pico must have been dropping out on this pico, thus causing intermittent fan, and no HDMI signal, but I can’t prove that, so I’m giving it 3/5. I’m going to try a different pico, bc I still need a low profile solution.

Do your checks for clearance before buying. Paired this with a 12V 8A power supply to power a 6 (2.5) drive OMV pc built. 25-30 watts under normal use is quite efficient for me. Soldered extra SATA connectors for additional drives and motherboard 4 pin connector.

Using this to power a ryzen 3200G on a b450 mobo. Works great!ADVICE: Be sure to order low profile ram or get ram without a heat spreader that extends past the top of the actual ram stick- otherwise it WILL interfere with the right angle connections coming out of the PSU circuit board on mITX due to location of 24pin connector on the mobo.