🚗 Keep your ride smooth and stress-free with the FB3000K CV Boot Kit!
The FB3000K Small Shaft Universal CV Boot Installation Kit by FLEXX BOOT includes 2 boots and 1 cone, designed for quick, durable CV joint repairs without axle removal. Its flexible, high-quality material supports multiple installation methods, saving time and money while preserving your vehicle’s original condition.
Manufacturer | FLEXX BOOT |
Brand | FLEXX BOOT |
Item Weight | 1.94 pounds |
Package Dimensions | 16.14 x 4.88 x 4.45 inches |
Item model number | FB3000k Parent |
Manufacturer Part Number | FB3000k Parent |
S**.
Perfect fit for F10 BMW
Like most X-drive BMW's, both front outer CV boots failed. Was able to notice the issue before the CV joints themselves failed. Due to the stretchy nature of these boots, I was able to replace boots without having to remove the CV axles from the car. Of note the included boot clamps are not the best quality. I broke one of the smaller (inside clamp that goes around the narrow part of the axle) and had to go to an auto parts store for another one. As others have said, you must have a CV clamp crimping tool. The boots and included plastic cone worked out great. Would definitely buy again.
P**I
Saved me on labor costs and works great
Great product! The Flexx Boot FB3000 fits perfectly and installs super easily. Saved me on labor costs and works great. Highly recommend!
I**E
Fácil de usar
Excelente, muy útil y fácil de usa
A**H
Not recommended
It days it will fit my 2015 ram 1500, I went ahead and bought it, I received it. I started taking apart my wheels and getting everything read for installation, while inspecting the product it turns out thag it doesn't even fit the truck. This product wasted my time, i sat for 3 hours unmountong everything and then remounting it after figuring out it won't work. If you're a mechanic you will understand how hard this was to do, especially for a person like me who has a disc and back problem! This is totally unprofessional. I don't recommend buying a product that can't even get its own specs right. How could uou trust a product on a vehicle you drive that doesn't even know if what they made woild fit your car.
D**Y
It worked!
I was skeptical about this but decided to try it, and it worked out well on my 2013 Subaru Forester. I warmed up the boot well ahead of time to soften it- I have an old gas stove with a pilot light so the oven is always a little warm, so I put the boot in there for a couple of hours while taking the wheel assembly apart. When I was ready to install, I soaked the boot in hot tap water for about ten minutes. I lubed the cone with some paraffin wax I happened to have. When you go to install it, keep the pressure on it, because the boot will try to slide backwards on the cone. I took off one star for a couple of reasons: 1) as others have said, there are no instructions included, you HAVE to watch the video in the product listing.2) my kit didn't include a packet of grease as shown in the photo. Didn't matter to me since I have my own bearing grease on hand, but it would have inconvenienced someone else.
B**D
Instructions would be nice
I suppose this is like everything else, the first time you do it is a challenge but it would go much more smoothly the second time. That's where instructions would help immensely to give you a fighting chance at success the first time. I was doing an outboard CV so the first question was do I turn it inside out and install the big end first or try to install the small end first? There are videos showing doing it both ways and I couldn't find anything specific to this brand. I chose to turn it inside out and I think I'd do it that way again. The next question was what to lubricate the cone with. Some videos say Pledge, some say oil, some say grease, some kits come with the cone lube. I started with Pledge because it seemed like it would be the least messy but made another mistake by only lubricating the cone and not the boot. The boot stretched tight over the cone wipes off the lubrication and then you're trying to slide the small end over a dry cone. SPOILER ALERT: That doesn't work. After lubing the boot and the cone for try #2 I ran into the next issue. The boot actually slides up the cone easily enough but the cone isn't big enough to clear the CV joint (see pic #1) and the boot stopped sliding when it hit the joint. I fought and fought and finally got the leading edge of the boot into the retaining groove on the joint and it wasn't going any farther. By now the Pledge was gone and the boot was dry on the cone. I was able to get it removed and regrouped for try #3. I went for a little more permanent lubricant and chose spray silicone and put it on both the boot and the cone. This try got the boot completely off the cone but the small end had barely cleared the tone wheel and it was NOT going to slide over the joint. At this point boot #1 gave up the fight (see pic #2). It was also about this point I wondered if I was going to have a vehicle down while waiting for a new half-shaft, but I had another boot and I'm not a quitter so I strategized for try #4. This was all or nothing so I went with grease. I liberally greased the outside of boot #2 and then turned it inside out and greased the cone - and then that little voice in the back of my head that said you need to do something about the rusty CV joint OD got loud enough that I finally listened and sanded down the joint until it was as smooth as the cone. This time the leading edge slid easily over the CV joint but the small end stopped just past the tone wheel again. With the cleaned up CV joint I was able to work the small end over and the worst of the battle was over. I wasn't off the struggle bus yet as I couldn't get the boot long enough without it collapsing because it would seal to the shaft and pull a vacuum when slid out to the retaining grooves. I was able to ever so gently insert a radiator hose pick in the small end as it was slid out so air could get in and the boot retained its proper form. My final blunder wasn't discovered until assembling the axle back into the knuckle and realizing the boot was too far on the joint and the clamp interfered with the casting. Thank goodness the kit included everything needed to do 2 joints because I used virtually all of it to do one. I rated the product 3 stars when there's nothing wrong with it and that may seem a little harsh but the lack of instructions meant a 1 hour job took half a day and paying for enough to do 2 joints is only enough to do one. Folks that do this for a living don't need them but home gamers only do a few in their lifetime and would most definitely benefit from them. Not having instructions affected the value of the product for me. I have four more of these to do on a pickup and after having been through it and knowing all the tricks - I'll go with split boots.
A**R
Jeep Renegade
Worked perfect for my 2022 Jeep Renegade after I got a puncture in one of my cv axle boots. Much cheaper than buying a new axle and easy to install.
A**S
Agreed with everyone else, that was really hard
Make sure to clean the rust on the outer CV axle before you tear off your old boot. This will minimize the chance of debris getting into the grease and bearings.I lubed everything up with grease and thought it'd be clever to pre-stretch the boot over the cone before sliding the boot over the CV axle. Don't do that because the boot will keep sliding off the cone cause there isn't enough friction to keep it on. Go to directly trying to slide the boot over the axle. I was doing the outer CV, but I found it was easier to do the small diameter first. As a smaller individual, (125lb) I had my back against a wall and basically used my leg, core, and a paper towel (for better grip) to push the boot through.I did try letting the boot sit in hot water, as well as the cone and grease, but I think it's not helpful if you're not super fast. Everything cools down by the time you have a successful attempt.Overall, boot is of good quality, but it's a b#&$ to put on
Trustpilot
2 weeks ago
5 days ago