4389102 Refrigerator Ice Maker Emitter Sensor Control Board Kit by Romalon Fit for Whirlpool Kenmore Replaces 2198586 PS557945 2220398 W10757851 AP5956767 ADC9102 W10193666 AP313751

Saved me money and icemaker is working again. What more can be said!

There are at least two youtube videos available should you need additional help, but this is just a plug-and-play replacement for the original emitter and receiver that controls the ice level in your refrigerator. This unit works by sending a beam of infrared light across the freezer compartment from the emitter on the left side to the receiver on the right side. When the ice bucket is full, the ice in the bucket will block this light. If the receiver does not see this beam of light, it does not allow any more ice to be made.There are several reasons why the light path may be blocked. Obviously, too much ice in the ice bucket. The emitter may have gone bad. The receiver may have gone bad. There is a swinging panel on the left side of the freezer that blocks the light path when the door of the freezer is open and when the ice bucket has been removed. And there is a sliding switch on the right side that can block the light path. It might be worth running a q-tip into the holes over the emitter and the receiver just to be sure something hasn't been caught in there that is blocking he light path.If the red LED on the receiver inside of the freezer compartment (right side) is blinking twice then pause, that means the light is not being received. Be sure to press the swinging panel over the emitter on the left side to unblock it. If the red LED comes on and holds steady, the light is being received and the ice maker should be functional.If not, the replacement process involves removing three screws on the right side, unplugging the wiring harness, popping the receiver board frame out of the side of the freezer, pulling another two screws to release the actual board, and replacing the board with the new component. I found it easier to plug the cable into the board before screwing it back into the frame. DEFINITELY DO NOT TRY TO REPLACE THE BOARD WITH THE FRIDGE PLUGGED INTO POWER. You run the risk of shorting out the board when you plug the wiring harness back into the board. Replace the frame into its slot and replace the screws holding it to the side of the freezer.Replacing the emitter is just the same procedure performed on the left side of the freezer compartment. Three screws to release the frame, pull the wiring harness, two screws to release the board, plug the new board into the wiring harness, replace the two internal screws, pop the frame into the slot in the side of the freezer, and replace the last three screws holding the frame in place.Once both components have been replaced, test the operation of the ice maker. Instructions are included in the package, but the short version is to push the swinging plastic shield over the emitter (left side) against the side of the freezer compartment and look at the LED on the receiver (right side). If the red LED lights up and stays on steady, all is well.I spent about 20 minutes replacing both units. In hindsight, it might have been wiser to replace one side, test it, then move to the other. It is unlikely that both have failed, and you have a 50/50 chance of picking the correct one first.Considering the official Whirlpool part costs about $175, this is very reasonably priced.

Easy

This was my second Amazon purchase to replace sensors on a Kenmore Elite 106.46023800. Worked perfect. The first purchase from a different company did not. Buy with confidence!

Fixed the icemaker problem quite well. Had called a repairman and they told me wasn't worth fixing. Would cost 250 just for parts . I find in 10 minutes for 15 dollars . Well worth my time amd enerfy!

The headline sums it up well. My icemaker quit several years ago and I was just dealing without it because the OEM version of this part was several hundred dollars. I wasn't positive it was the correct part so I didn't want to risk the money only to find out it was something else. I had kind of forgotten about it and decided to do another search recently and found this one. It was inexpensive enough that if it wasn't the fix I wasn't out much, so I decided to give it a shot. It took about 10 minutes overall to install. The hardest part was getting the screwdriver in the tight spaces to take the access panels off and put them back on, and that is of no fault of the part or manufacturer, and will vary by model. Once apart it took about 2 minutes each to disconnect the old ones and reattach the new ones on the very short wires in the fridge. Once done I plugged the fridge back in and the status lights behaved as they were supposed to, and a while later I heard that long-absent sound of ice dropping into the bin.

This optic board fixed Whirlpool refrigerator ice-maker problem. My refrigerator stopped making ice a couple weeks ago, and red indicator light was blinking twice intermittently. I did not know how to fix this problem, so I called refrigerator repair man, they quoted me over $300 to fix this problem. So, I searched internet, and luckily I found the answer on the YouTube, and I also found the parts needed on Amazon. Price of this parts was surprisingly cheap, and there's nothing to lose to try this fix, and it WORKED. My refrigerator is now making ice regularly.Replacing this optic board was relatively easy following the YouTube instruction. The only (moderately) difficult step is to remove (and replace) the optic board connector from the refrigerator harness in a tight space, but it was doable. Some people mentioned that there are two different versions of this optic board, namely Rev A and Rev C, but I don't think they make any differences. Mine was Ver A, different from the picture shown Ver C, but it is working just fine.

These pcb boards look to be high quality. A very close duplication of the originals and nice wide traces. For twenty bucks it’s a no brainer. Fixed the issue immediately. Back to making ice again. Hope the boards last.