Royal Purple (36530-6PK HPS 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil with Synerlec Additive Technology - 1 Quart, (Case of 6)

I use this oil in my champion generators. The higher ZDDP (Zinc) content is exactly what a single cylinder OHV carbureted engine needs. Some will say its overkill for these types of engines but then im aiming for 20 years of reliable use from my Gens so this oil will certainly help me get there. And, its reasonably priced in comparison to other high ZDDP oils so you really cant go wrong.

great as always, continue to buy

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I am only buying this as a promise I made to my car, I refused the extended warranty I was pushed to get for additional 3k on top of the car price and said, for that 3k I can get BEST OIL, BEST ATF and filters and most importantly Premium Fuels.I pay ten bucks for oil changes because I give them a WIX Filter and this oil. Everyone takes 2nd look because they do notice I put premium parts and quality oil in the car. From past experience adding cheap fuel 87, adding/changing of cheap oil at your lube place (which is recycled) I started having EGR issues, Catalytic Converter issues, O2 sensors, Coils and won't even get into the cost of repair. Most were due to using cheap fuel and one thing I learned is... It costs more money to be cheap vs paying for quality products.For oil changes it saves me money, I no longer do it every 3k, I do it 5k or 6k or even more, I check filter and if needs I replace it @ 4k and let it go for further. Oil is as new as it was put in the first day.The cost is about the same for buying other brands. I did notice going up in price and when it goes down in price again I'll order 2 (12q.) boxes.Right now I am more curious how long the car will go using premium services/lube and fuel. I always dump cars @ 160k miles and this I intended to keep till it falls apart.I noticed that my car dropped from 22+ mpg to under 20 mpg in city. Someone told me it is the WINTER gas and the additive all companies put in their gas during winter. After I started pumping Premium gas one step from what I used to use (Plus'89) and dropped one of these in my tank, I got a little better mpg, my dash said 20-21.x from 19 but I'm still 1mpg lower than what I used to get last year.The reason I put Premium fuel, premium Royal Purple HPS Oil and ATF is because I refused to pay an additional $3,000 for lame extended warranty at the dealer past the 36k miles, long story short, I ended up having existing power-train warranty from manuf. so by spending the 3k in premium insurance would have been a waste and abslt. dumb. Keeping a car 5-8 years 200k should be no issue here, once you start with good quality parts and regular maintenance.

I use it in my 1973 Ford f250 360CI. Runs noticeably quieter and very smooth compared to your average conventional oil. I would say this is great stuff for older engines with flat-tappets. I messaged Royal Purple and asked what they recommended for an older car and this is the stuff. Lots of Zinc and Phosphorous/ZDDP substitute for the older technology. It also has an extremely high viscosity index, out of any oil I've seen, so you know it will perform great in those temp extremes as well, hot and cold. At about 11 bucks a quart if you buy in bulk, it's also hard to beat the price when comparing to Amsoil or Redline, although those would be great choices as well.Comparing other options, Amsoil is a bit thinner than this and offers a little bit better cold weather performance and longevity, but is pretty expensive. Redline is nice because you know what they put in it, no secrets with them--very high quality group 5 ingredients. It's also the most robust, and probably offers the greatest protection in extreme operation. Don't necessarily know what they put in the HPS, though I imagine it's a high quality group 4/5 ester/PAO base, either that or its got a pretty beastly additive package to perform the way it does. Mobil is another obvious option and is probably the best all-rounder for your newer cars, though some of these "boutique" oils I've mentioned offer more specific things if you need them.Overall, I think this one wins the comparison for price and if you don't change the oil every 20,000 miles. Personally, I wouldn't wait that long on any vehicle. Maybe 10,000 at the most in an engine that is perfectly sound.

good oil engine is okay… sounds lil different. But feel like its a downgrade from the RP 5w40My advice its same price buy the 5w40 it’s supposed to be for high performance vehicles and i use it my sports car (I rebuilt my car engine and will be using RP XPR 5w30). And my vehicle was running a lot better on it.Overall its good oil but I promise ya the 5w40 is way better

My original LS1 had heads and cam done along with a 150hp nitrous kit. I literally sprayed it every chance I got! I mean constantly. When I built a new motor I parted out the LS1. When I pulled the heads off it still showed the cross hatch from the factory honing!! Didn’t burn any oil, basically it still looked brand new!! I swear by RP. Anything that I have, if it takes a lubricant of any kind and RP makes it, it’s in there. Even the engine builder I use swears by it too. The new motor makes 585rwhp plus 400hp of nitrous. It’s almost 16 years old and still runs like a raped ape!! RP and K&N, weed whacker to a N2O huffing monster, you can’t go wrong!!