Shelly1PM Relay Switch, WiFi Smart Home Automation, Compatible with Alexa & Google Home, iOS Android App, No Hub Required, Wireless Light Switch, Smart Appliances Gadgets, UL Certified, 2 Pack

I have been playing with these things for about a week now and they are great. I found the info online to be lacking but once I saw the control panel (at 192.168.33.1) I was in love. By default they are configured for 230V so that's the first thing you want to configure. There is a maximum wattage setting which works. Firmware update added a lot of features. I have jumped the switch contacts but I think maybe you can do that in software instead.Be aware that the max wire gauge that will fit is AWG 14 and it is an absolute nightmare trying to get finely stranded wire into the holes. Ferules help but make for a very tight fit on 14 gauge. In future I will probably use solid core 14 to lever nuts for connections to stranded wire.Compatibility with Home Assistant is perfect. I am using these to run an electric hot water heater during the periods that an electric radiator is not consuming power, in order to balance the load on one 15A supply. It has been very reliable. Screenshot from HASS attached.

I have a couple of these. I watched a few YouTube video ls thinking that would be the easiest way to learn how to use this, but honestly, the diagrams on their site are more helpful.My setup is the shellys for use with siri. I tried this with homebridge. That worked for simple setups but it didn't work for my three way switch. Siri could turn the switch on but not off. So I flashed these with a homekit compatible firmware and they work flawlessly now.It was fairly straightforward. I can imagine lots of uses for these, but I won't be giving any to my non handy brother. He'd never get it to work. If you are comfortable tinkering with things it's a great product. If you want to just wire it in, scan a qr code and it all just works, then it's not the product for you.

Soy usuario de Shelly desde hace algunos años, los uso en casa y ahora también para ayudar en otras casas, de personas mayores, con la automatización de algunas luces y yo mantengo el control de los dispositivos, sin que ellos tengan que preocuparse por la tecnología

Tengo un mes usándolo y hasta ahora funciona muy bien; sin embargo me tomó bastante tiempo la configuración, hay que ser paciente e intentarlo varias veces.

This is a great device at an incredible price. Before trying these, I automated switches by replacing the entire switch. This left a lot to be desired because the feel of the dedicated smart switches weren't great. They felt and sounded like clicking a computer mouse since they used micro switches internally. By using a device like these Shellies, you're able to use any switch you like, so I can keep the classic electrical switches I've grown accustom to.The stock firmware on these guys is incredibly capable compared to competitors. I was astonished. It's not unpolished Chinese software that you may expect, it's very well done and very capable. With the recent update, I don't have any reason to try custom firmware like I originally expected to have to do.One concern I had was using these with existing 3-way switches and retaining control via both switches, plus through the Shelly. This depends on how your switches are wired. What you need is access to the line that goes to the device, access to always live power, and a neutral, all in the box where the Shelly will reside. In the most simple 3-way switch setups, one switch will have the wire going to the device and the other will have the live. This is no good. However, in some cases (like if you have a 2-gang or larger box with multiple switches in it), you may get lucky to find live power in the same box as the line that goes to the device.In cases that you don't have this, the only way to make it work is to run a live line somewhere. You can either run it to the switch box that currently has the line going to the device, OR you can run it to the box of the device itself and place the Shelly there. It's also worth checking to see if there is an always live line at the device. This may be the case if you have a ceiling fan you can turn on with the cable pull without the light being on.From here, to wire it, you cut the line going to the device. The end that goes to the device goes to O on the Shelly. The end that came from the switch goes to SW on the Shelly. The live line goes to L and the neutral goes to N. That's it. You'll now have independent control from both switches and the Shelly.