Upgrade Kit for Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener, Set of 7 Abrasives and Carry Case

I've had this system for about a week. I finally had some time to sit down and set ot up. It's extremely easy to setup, and has a great little case that everything fits neatly into. I glanced at the instructions, watched a fee YouTube videos, and got to work on a cheaper knife I've been trying to sharpen by hand for days to no avail.This knife wouldn't cut paper and was giving me a headache from trying to sharpen by hand. I started on the courses grit and finally got a burr after about 20 minutes. It was starting to give me another headache, but I kept at it. It takes a little time to figure out the technique and proper form. But, once you get it, it's amazing. I worked through every grit, and the strop. The edge almost had a mirror polish after my first attempt. It was getting late so I started rushing through some of the stones once I got the hang of it, or it would've had a real mirror polish.It is by far the sharpest knife I've ever held or sharpened. Blows away every factory edge ive ever felt, all 38.I have a few other systems, much cheaper, and not diamond stones either. One is more for touching up your edge. I have tried free hand sharpening quite a few time, and every time have ended up with a more dull knife than when I started (I'm still not giving up). It's very refreshing to know I can put a razor-sharp edge on any of my knives now.This system has everything you need and is easy to use. You get great results, and the price is very reasonable considering the costs of other fixed angle sharpeners. The build quality is great, the clamp hold the blade secure. The only thing I can recommend is a digital angle finder, got one for $25. Also, at first feel the stones didn't slide very smooth on the guide rod. So I put two drops of gun oil on the plastic where the rod touches and that greatly improved the feel when sliding the stones back and forth on the edge. Lastly wipe the blade between grits, and get an old toothbrush to clean the metal out of the stones to prevent cross contamination between grits. Also, I highly recommend watching some of work sharps YouTube videos and reading the comment section, thats where i heard about the oil and cross contamination. There are different techniques that can yield different results, work sharp has video on that.Overall for the price I'd go with the elite version, but I'm sure the basic would work great, except when it comes to the mirror polish.and final look. I'm am blown away and extremely happy to have a system that not only works, but works great!!

The media could not be loaded. So many youtube, reddit, and even Amazon reviewers here that day this thing has horrible clamp wiggle/play. Idk if they updated the design or what but mine has very little flex. I couldn't get myself to buy the pro version and was planning to go to the library to 3 print a support but it honestly doesn't need it - at least for pocket knives.The abrasives are great. I feel like the 220 is excellent for when you just get this thing and need to make sure your angles are set properly. The step ups do their job. Going through both tri abrasives rods gets you to an almost shine. There's a strop included but I haven't used it bc I don't have any compound here right now. But stopping with the stone is plenty sharp to cut curves in paper.Ive been using dmt stones with pretty good results. But my stones are probably 10yrs old and there's been just one or two trouble knives in my collection I couldn't ever seen to get sharp. This has fixed that with ease. Takes all the skill out of the equation. Take care to match your angle up initially (or grind down to it with the 220) and the rest is just mindless work.I tried the ken onion mk2 and like this way better. Much easier to use and get the angle right. Even though it's not motorized, bc this thing is so easy to set, I think you get better results faster.Carry case is really nice for storage since this thing is like 4 pieces plus 3 rods. Will easily store some extras like paper for test cuts and some polishing compound. Love the magnetic attachments all over this thing. Wish the two big parts of the base weren't as hard to get back apart as they are. But that's About all the complaints I've got.It's not cheap. But I'm convinced that it's worth the money.

I have a few knives for EDC and for my workshop, as well as the usual kitchen knife set. I’ve never been happy with the performance of my little Smith’s 2-step, coarse and fine, knife sharpener. I’ve tried using a stone and failed miserably..After field dressing a deer, this Fall, wishing all the while my knife was sharper, I decided to check out some knife sharpener reviews on YT. The Work Sharp Precision Adjust seemed excellent value at just $60, had great reviews and was simple to operate. I ordered it..The Work Sharp Precision Adjust is indeed very easy to use. The knife holder has some flexibility to it but to use this sharpener correctly, you do not apply pressure to the stone on the blade. Let the stone do the work. You just move it back and forth. The flex therefore becomes negligible..My first attempt to sharpen my fixed blade deer knife was good but disappointing in that I couldn’t slice through a sheet of paper. It was sharp but not the promised sharpness. I couldn’t establish the original angle off the cutting edge since I’d changed it with my failed, manual, diamond stone sharpenings. I essentially had to reprofile the edge. This is where I found the Work Sharp Precision Adjust was lacking. It took forever with the lowest grit of 320. Eventually, I sort of got there. Same with my next knife and similarly with my small kitchen knives. All needed some reprofiling.A day or so later, after watching yet more videos, I revisited my knives. This time, I was able to spend a little less time and managed to achieve that awesome paper slice. I think I was able to refine the new profile this time, having remembered the angles I’d used, and didn’t get frustrated like the first time. I also used a 15x loupe to see the edge detail. That’s now a permanent accessory in my sharpening kit..I concluded that 320 grit was just too fine for an effective reprofile, especially on a longer knife, or one heavily chipped..I considered returning the $60 Work Sharp Precision Adjust and buying the Work Sharp Precision Adjust Elite kit for another $60 more. The coarser 220 grit included in that kit would no doubt make reprofiling a lot quicker. Then I reckoned that it was just as cost effective, if not more so, to keep what I had and order the upgrade kit. Yes, that is $80 more. However, I keep the existing 320/600/ceramic sharpener from the original Adjust, adding another 3 sharpeners, with one set being an extra of what I already have. You can order new stones for around $7 each. So, I’m actually getting a spare set of 320, 600 and ceramic stones, including another holder, for only $20, versus over $21 for just three individual stones. Better value to spend the $140 for the Adjust and the upgrade kit than the $120 Elite..Tonight, I used my now-upgraded kit on another folding knife I keep in my truck. I’ve never sharpened that one and it was pretty blunt. I used a Sharpie pen to help establish the cutting edge profile – 25 deg. Starting at 220 grit, it didn’t take long to make the first pass. I moved through each of the stones, refining the edge each time and finished off with the strop. I already have a large strop but the Worksharp strop, keeping the exact edge angle used to sharpen, makes the final step a no-issue breeze. You won’t easily get a mirror polish finish, (that will take more time with the finer stones and ceramic) but without the loupe, the cutting edge looks shiny, clean and it’s razor sharp. That’s all I’m after!.I think that, for the money, this is one of the best sharpeners out there. It’s easy to use once you try it a couple times, and the results are awesome!I do suggest you get the upgrade kit though. Whether you buy the Adjust plus the Upgrade kit, or the Elite itself, you will need those additional stones for reprofiling with ease.