AGPtek® Universal Digital PID Temperature Controller RNR Control Out Dual display For Fahrenheit(F) and Celsius(C)

I make vaporizer for bee treatment

What's not to like? Intuitive simple interface. Reliable. Inexpensive (but not cheap!). Often bundled with sensors. The RNR variant is for when you don't want SSR output - instead needing to control long-term-on-off loads - you should always use the SSR for short-term variable, but for 10's of minutes cycles - the RNR is fine. Be sure to include alarms in your design to detect if the relay does eventually fail - that's the cost of the simplicity of RNR vs SNR. I have four of these controlling the fermenters at my brewery.

Bought as a direct replacement for similar unit from about 2015. That unit failed after years of service controlling an oven temperature. This new one operates, HOWEVER, its ability to accurately read at Type K probe was very bad, compared with an accurate thermometer. This unit Required 70 degrees F of compensation (offset) to read accurately at 400F, which means that at room temperature, it is reading about 70F high. The predecessor read accurately on the same probe.Pros- low cost, relay output, separate alarm output, PID or ON/OFF control option. Autotune. C/F display is selectable. Configurable alarms. Printed instructions have small illustrations and a few examples which are helpful. Fairly easy Set Point adjustment.Cons-failure to read Type K probe accurately; instructions are somewhat murky, but clear enough for setup by an experienced user. I may have received a dud, but didn't discover this until after installation at a remote site, 200 miles from home.

We keep on using these at work. I have not had a defective one yet. Once you get used to how to set them up they are fantastic. The oldest unit I have is about 4 years old, running constantly every day. You can't beat the value anywhere.

**** Update ****I still have not changed my mind or my rating of this PID. I'm just adding an update since I started using this part again, due to lack of the TA-7 that I usually use.I normally use a TA-7 so this TA-4 had been put away for about a year. It had about 1-2 hours of use before I replaced it with a TA-7. I recently picked up a 3D printer and I needed a PID to control a heated platform I made. Since I connected it to the heated platform, I've used it for about 16 hours total. Yesterday, during a 4 hour print, I noticed the temperature was well above 70c (I set the temp to 60c). At first, I thought it was just swinging or because the print had failed and the hot-end was touching the glass, right above the thermocouple. The temperature was still steady at 70-ish but I noticed the "ON" LED was not on, which means the heating element should be OFF. Why is the temp still so high? Well, it would seem the mechanical relay had fused together after about 17 hours or use. I say 17 hours because I had about 16 hours on it before and I noticed this about an hour into my last print.So, the electronics do WORK, but the mechanical part of it is... well, to be expected. This PID is no longer a functioning PID. It is now a bulky thermometer, with alarms.*******It works. Like another reviewer said, pay close attention to the part number. This is the TA-4 (relay output), and the TA-7 (SSR output) is the one I really wanted, but oh well. I can't fault this PID unit for my lack of paying closer attention to the part number offered. The document and the menu does have the option of SSR (001) or default relay (020), but this doesn't do anything, so don't be fooled by it.As far as this relay goes, the core is the same as all my other TA-x PID units, and they simply work. I have these (SSR version) in my powder coat oven, two in my kiln, one in a shop space heater, and various other places. The one(s) that get used and abused the most are the ones in the kiln since it is on and the PIDs are running practically all day, keeping temps of around 1800F, or somewhere around 900C.I haven't had one fail yet.However, I have to say that I don't anticipate this one lasting too long since it is a relay output. At some point, the coil MAY get a surge and anything can happen, or the physical contacts may arc and weld themselves together, rendering the unit useless. I have the unit plugged into a small water tank as a test and it keeps clicking (at and around the target temp). I don't think it will last too long in this condition, however, this is how it was designed and how it works.It's brand new, so I can't give it poor marks for MAY BE failing soon. But I can give it relatively high marks for functioning as it is supposed to.Just beware of the part number as I believe most people are looking for SSR drive, instead of relay output.

Works as advertised. I used this in a DIY incubator for chicken eggs. After auto tuning I made a couple tweaks to the PID parameters and it is controlling my incubator (two 60 watt light bulbs are the heating element) to within 0.5 degrees F. It does have a tendency to creep up above the setpoint a half a degree or so to compensate. I expect my tweaking with the PID params is causing the issue, but it is so stable that I don't mind the error.

My background is instrumentation and control, I was going to use this to control the temperature of fermenting wine or beer in carboys in winter with 30W sleeve heaters.It came quickly; the instructions were not awful but not something I would consider clear. That said, there are good links here to help on YouTube.Anyway, it worked fine for a week or so then the temp started to drop but the output lamp was lit. Tried the normal stuff, cycled power, checked programming, reprogrammed, the relay won't fire. If I heard the relay trip I might have thought it was something on my end but there is no click yet the output lamp is lit so It certainly seems to be an internal defect. The 2nd display can indicate power out percentage and its at 100.Honestly, if this worked it would get 5 stars, it would be well worth the cost. I would have been very satisfied if it kept working, it has what you need to control a light load.Since I already made a box, mounted a switch and fuse I just ordered the SNR version, the output will be a solid state relay I supply. If that works I will change this rating to 4. There are other recent comments about relay issues so that seem the route to go.

I will stress if you need a controller to operate a separate SSR use the drop down menu to chose the correct one. It is very simple to use and the SSR model works great, I am using it in a steam generator the control is very easy to set up use and connect could not be happier!! The auto tune feature is tremendous in set up ease. thanks again

Mon 2e contrôleur et toujours satisfait. ..pourquoi payer plus chère ?

Just as described, works great!

I have bought several of these controllers over the past three years and they work well.Just be warned that this model is not meant to directly drive a solid state relay (SSR), rather it has a dry relay contact that opens and closes as prescribed by the process and setpoint variables in the controller.Instructions are fair. If you need help there are lots of forums online that deal with this product as it is very popular and used in many applications from home brewing, smoke houses, kiln and oven controls etc.

Works great

Very fast. Exactly as expected