PferdCS-X Chainsaw Chain Sharpener, 5/32” File for 3/8” Low Profile Chains, 2-in-1 Chainsaw Sharpener and Depth Gauge Tool, Easy Handheld Chain Sharpening (Pack of 1) - Part 17300

Bottom line up front: Try this sharpener. It is totally worth it if you can get the hang of using it (which is easy)!I'll preface this review by admitting that I don't have a ton of experience with chainsaws. (But this sharpener works great for a novice) When I started cutting my own firewood, I tried using a handheld chain sharpener, that I got cheap with the saw, with zero luck. I don't know if I just didn't have the patience to do it right, but it just didn't get the chain the sharpness I wanted. I bought a kit that went in the dremel, once again, not a solution. I did a little better with that, but the "angles got off" according to the guy that I brought the chains to to get sharpened. The only good solution was to carry multiple chains, and swap them if they started getting dull, then bring all the dull ones in to the local dealer to get them sharpened. Then I saw some videos, reviews, etc on the Stihl version of this (which costs a lot more) and thought I would give the Pferd a try, as from what I can tell, they are the same. It look a little bit to get used to it, but once I got the hang of it, it works fast and gives you a razor sharp chain.Operating it is simple, I like to set the saw on a table or tailgate, stand to one side, figure out which end of the sharpener to hold, and then start sharpening. The angle on the tool helps me keep the correct angle on the sharpener. Once the entire chain is done from the one side, I turn the saw around, and go end for end with the tool, and repeat with the other teeth. Usually 3 passes per tooth on a dull chain, and it's razor sharp again. There's no need to take the chain off, or drive to the dealer to get it sharpened. I always sharpen after a day of cutting, and usually that's sufficient, but it's easy to sharpen in the woods also.I really didn't think I'd ever get away from getting the chains professionally sharpened, but this inexpensive tool has already saved me over $100 in sharpening costs. Not to mention prolonging the life of the chain, as I've heard some other people complain about the amount of material the dealership takes off when they sharpen. I don't have to be constantly worried that I might dull my chain and have to bring it to the dealer. Possibly the best indication that I love this tool is that I bought one for my dad. He's a dremel sharpening devotee, but I'm working on getting him to incorporate this, because I really believe that this is the best way to maintain your chains. It also works really quickly, maybe 10 minutes to sharpen a 20 inch chain.

I have the Stihl brand version of this sharpener for my chain saw and it's been great and keeping my chain sharp and cutting well. Later on, my wife bought a Ryobi pole saw with a 10" bar and I needed a sharpener. I love my Pferd files, so I decided to give this sharpener a try. It's every bit as good as my Stihl sharpener and works well with the low profile chain on our pole saw. I'd recommend watching the YouTube videos on how to use these correctly. It's easy, but there's definitely a technique to it. Just go slow, use the same number of strokes for each tooth, you'll love the results. I highly recommend this sharpener.

I have a PFERD sharpener for all of my saws and they work excellent. Super easy to use and quickly sharpens a chain in a matter of minutes. Compact size makes it very portable for use in the field or back in the shop. Files last a long time before needing replacement. A great accessory for anyone with a saw that wants to sharpen their own chains. Return on investment will be super quick.

I didnt expect very much of this, because I bought it pretty much just as a handle replacement after my existing file handle wore out.I have tried all kinds of files and jigs in the past 30 years, as I cut a LOT of wood.I've tried Dremel based stone sharpeners, and rotary disc sharpeners, but both of these are only suitable in a benchtop environment, remove too much metal, and leave a slightly wrong profile on the teeth that adds up to a not very good sharpening job.I tried the wobbly clamp-on jigs that newbies start with, and usually end up throwing away because they're a pain in the butt to use and too delicate to carry in a field box without smashing them. So like most serious woodcutters, I've ended up with just a flat file, a round file and a handle that fits both when I go into the field. I bought this one when my handle wore out, and you can imagine how many files it takes to wear out a handle completely.I thought the all in one raker file was "cute" and gimmicky, and fully expected to pull that file out whenever I wanted to actually use it. This is because I tend to file my rakers extremely aggressively... I'm not running a big engine to produce fine sawdust but to "flow chip" out of the saws exhaust port. So the first time I tried this file, I was very surprised that it actually was making contact with my rakers at about the same depth that I would have filed them - except that it wasn't consistent, which surprised me as it exposed how inconsistent my freehand filling actually was. Consistency is good. Over time, this file may actually improve my half-used chains! I have one chain a buddy sharpened so wrong it rolls lengthwise in an 18" log, so I may REALLY challenge it to even-out that one...unfair test!So, how did it file (with experience but not obsessive care)?Chisel sharpness: about 90% as sharp as I CAN get the teeth, based on subjective grabbiness. That's arguably PERFECT since a truly razor sharp tooth cuts one log great and then goes dull. This is DARN sharp when fresh, and should hold the sharpness longer.Comfort: if you have to do 36" fulltooth chains a couple times, most simple handles will give you a bruise. This is a good chunky handle that fits well in hand. My hands wrapped it well for great control (keep in mind, YOU still have to control angle and leveling since this isn't a sliding miter jig). There are multiple angle reminders on the tool including the end handles themselves, so correct angle is really easy to see -- just obey it!How does the chain actually cut? If it take my time on a bench with my old file, I can handsharpen about as well as a brand new blade. With this in my pouch, I can touch up my blade in about 1/2 the time, and just as well when less ideally sitting on the saw in the woods. I haven't gotten new hands, and I consider this still a freehand file, so I'm absolutely amazed how much better it works. Thus is a great file for initiates to learn on, and speedy file for more experienced users.Just to cover a couple more questions that I had before buying it...1) it holds two round files, one for each direction and a flat file for ambidextrous rakers - it does NOT file two teeth at once.2) each handle of this type is uniquely compatible with ONLY one file diameter and tooth spacing. You "shouldnt" use this if either doesn't match your chain. It won't work right with the wrong diameter files.3) although it takes standard 8" round files, I really like the Pferd files...at only $1 each, they are worth using Pferd files instead of really cheap junk. Don't hobble yourself.